Shashemene, Ethiopia Saturday, June 17, 2006 5 PM (11:00 Ethiopian time)

This is the first opportunity I’ve had to send an e-mail. We are in a crossroad "metropolis" an hour's drive south of where we are camped and are spending a night for R&R at the S. Rift Valley Hotel here in Shashemene. You might be able to find this place on the atlas. We have been at the project site at Kumudu, on what is locally called the Huluka River, since arriving last Sunday. Pinky and I share our own tent next to a field. The 9 students, 4 women, 5 men, share 2 tents. All are safe and sound and in good health. The week has been unforgettable for many reasons, and I think of the TV show 24 for all the cliff hangers we've had, and unfortunately I can't get in to great detail about them now because the connection here is very slow and I have limited time at this internet cafe. The people of Kumudu are most friendly and very poor, subsiding on crops they grow from their collective gardens. Our plan was to install a ram pump at the river and deliver water to a tank 80 feet or so above the river to a tank to be constructed there. Because of the flow in the river, this being the start of the wet weather season of the year, the plan was to build a sand bag dam to divert the river water. When we arrived, we started the 4th attempt and spent all week on it. It was much work for all, digging soil by hand from near the river, filling 100 kg bags, transporting them and piling them up. The students thought that placing a corrugated steel "membrane" in the middle of the dam would help maintain the integrity of the dam. The site is below rocks and a ravine. I didn't know the characteristics of the ravine when I started this, and I don't think anyone did. Well, Friday night after lunch a far off rainstorm created a wall of water I've never seen before, with a roar that could be heard far away. It was reminiscent of what I've seen in the Grand Canyon. This wall of water struck the dam and tore it apart, destroying a week's work of 60 or so villagers and us. Following the event, we reconned the site, and I walked up reach of the ravine. Needless to say, I concluded from what I saw of the storm surge that nothing permanent can be built in the flood plain of this river. Last evening was not a happy one. Our local Engage Now Foundation rep, Jack Williams (who is 74 years in age) brought some beer to our camp last night to help us commiserate. We are evaluating our plan for delivering water to irrigate the fields for the community and are looking into several options, including a setup that includes a removable pump that would be in place only during the dry season, and a siphon to deliver water from an upstream location that is higher in elevation than the proposed tank. We have been eating cooked vegetables all week. The food has been good, but we may be losing a little weight. We will be having a steak dinner this evening for sure, and a sound sleep in a bed. I'll try and write again soon, but doubt it will be much less than a week from now. I will try and read your e-mails but with limited time may not be able to until returning to the States. Nagatti!

Addis Ababa, Ethiopia June 12, 8 AM

We made it through our marathon flight to Addis Ababa, leaving from Newark, transferring at Dulles onto Ethiopian Airlines, which, by the way, is celebrating its 60th year this year (as is Studer and McEldowney), arriving at 6:30 PM last night our time. We successfully negotiated the Addis airport without losing a bag. Our group consists of 5 students plus Pinky and me, and we will be meeting up with 4 others from the Princeton EWB group later today at a camp near Arsi Negelle. Upon our arrival, I learned that the diversion dam placed a couple weeks ago blew out from heavy rainstorms. In fact, the temporary diversion dam, needed to divert flows while we build the permanent masonry and concrete dam, has blown out 3 times now by heavy storms that, we are told, are "uncommon." Great. The students looked at me and said, "We're not worried - you'll think up something." Right. We spent last night in the Addis Ababa Sheraton, a 5 star oasis of luxury. It will be our last taste of anything like this for quite a while. We leave in a few minutes for the Ascend Alliance camp near Arsi Negelle. We'll be traveling by 4-wheel drive 4 hours. We were cautioned to fasten our seat belts because they drive aggressively here, and the vehicles are known to roll over when the tire blows. I'll write again when we go to town in Arsi Negelle, whenever that will be.

Pittstown, NJ June 10, 2006

Starting today, Pinky and I will be embarking on what will undoubtedly be the adventure of our lifetimes. Since the first of the year, I have been mentoring a group of Princeton University students on an irrigation and purification project, which will improve conditions in a village in Ethiopia. Along with 9 undergraduate students (5 men, 4 women), we will be flying to Addis Ababa and traveling by Range Rover 4 hours to the community of Kumudo in the Arsi Negelle district of Ethiopia, near the Equator and about 6000 feet above sea level. Thursday it was 63 degrees there when I checked and 63 degrees here, too. This trip will be for implementing the project, which will include a ram pump, which operates on the energy generated by the river, a 7-foot high dam, a discharge pipe, water tank and a drip irrigation system to provide water for the community's gardens. We will also be constructing a sand filter to improve water used for consumption. We will be going to a nearby village once a week to "shower and shave," and I hope we can find a cold beer there, but I hold no serious expectations! I should be able to send e-mail and will try and provide you with an occasional update. The group will be returning July 17, and I expect to be back in my office the next day. Pinky and I will look forward to relating to you our adventures in implementing this project and our experiences with the people of Ethiopia.

Rome, Italy Sunday, July 20, 1969

Today was an amazingly late day – i.e., though we made it up for 10:00 AM breakfast, we didn’t get out of bed till 2:00 PM! We went back downstairs, and I simply conked out, contacts and all. It is seldom that I’ll go to sleep after breakfast: in fact, I think it’s about the first time. Today was my Winkle day.

At 3:00 PM we had spaghetti for lunch at a nearby trattoria and left on a #78 bus to the terminal (from Largo Tritone), where we caught a #93 bus out to New Roma. It is a wealthy section – quite beautiful. We went up the high tower and had a couple beers at the restaurant at the top. The view was great. We had a good view of the Big Sports Palace, and I took some pictures. 

We took the bus back to the terminal and got the 7 o’clock bus for Tivoli. It was a cheap ride (210 lira) for 45 minutes. We wanted to see Villa d’Este, but it did not open until 7 o’clock. To pass the time, we shopped a bit and went to dinner. It was good – we had lasagna (Pinky didn’t like hers) and a whole liter of wine, which cost only 250 lira. We couldn’t drink it all.

We made it back to the Villa d’Este at about 9:30. By this time, it was dark, and the lights were on the fountains. The impression was much different from that of last year. It was really beautiful. We walked down to one of the large fountains, where Pinky decided she wanted to take a flash picture. Having no flash cubes, she went back to find some. While  sitting on the edge of  the fountain watching the inane public dash under the falling water, I saw a fellow standing near me. We recognized each other immediately: Dave Bailey from Hill. Dave and I hadn’t been what you would call close friends at Hill. Acquaintances mostly. I chatted a bit with him. When Pinky returned with her flash, we went off all together to explore the gardens. The main problem was fighting the mobs: there were too many people. But we made the complete round. We found the bawdy breasty fountain I photographed last year, and Pinky took one of Dave and me. At 11 o’clock or so we decided to have a beer, and we went up and rested our feet until we had to leave to catch the last bus leaving the 12 o’clock. We made it and even succeeded in getting a seat.

Once we arrived at the terminal, we said goodbye to Dave and said we hope to run into him in Florida. We were planning to go tomorrow, and Dave sometime after that. We caught #78 bus, but it was on a night run – which was quite different from the daytime. Plus, we picked up some crazy nut from France who insisted in talking to me. He got on the bus with us, got off with us, and walked to our hotel with us – that all he did was wish to use the phone. We were glad to be rid of him. 

Sometime while we were asleep, Aldrin, Collins and Armstrong reached the moon, and Neal A. Armstrong became the first man to step on the moon!! Some honeymoon